PDA

View Full Version : Chlorine



Earthling
07-08-2008, 07:52 AM
I put together a group order for our ward for chlorine to purify water. Since you get this from pool supply stores to clean spas, there are no instructions on how to use it for drinking water. I found this on the Internet on using it and it agrees with the info that Tim Woolf gives in his talks. I am giving a copy to everyone that ordered the chlorine.

CHLORINATING CONCENTRATE
By G. H. Brown
Advice to those using clorox for water sterilization: Clorox (5 to 6 % sodium hypochlorite) has a shelf life of approximately 1 year from date of manufacture. To be on the safe side, it should not be kept past 6 months to be effective for purification purposes, counting some months on the grocery store shelf before purchased by us.

A better method of water purification would be using a chlorinating concentrate manufactured for spas and hot tubs. The best one contains Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate . . . . 99%, and 1% inert ingredients, and is available from some pool and spa supply stores. I have recently also found this formulation at a local Home Depot center.

Its advantages:

-only 1/4 teaspoon is used to treat a 55 gallon drum of water.
-the shelf life of a container of this concentrate is 15 to 25 years + (if kept dry and not stored hot)
-you can buy it and forget about it. My experience with Clorox is that it is usually getting old and may be ineffective for treating water adequately when we need it.

Instructions for use:

Add 1/4 teaspoon of the chlorinating concentrate to your 50 or 55 gal. drum. Place the cap on the container and close it, and allow it to sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours, remove the lid and test for the presence of free chlorine in the water. This can be done by smelling (careful), or by using test strips for free chlorine, available at many stores (Wal-mart or pool and spa stores or other stores). These test strips cost about $10.00 for 50 strips. If the chlorine can be detected after 24 hours, then the water has been purified. At that point, remove the lid from the water container and allow it to sit open for another 24 hours. The free chlorine will come out of the water, and the water is then fit for drinking. If no chlorine is present after the first 24 hours with the container closed, repeat the process, as organic matter (bacteria, cysts, etc.) are still present. Until free chlorine can be detected after 24 hours, there are probably organisms still present.

The cost for the chlorinating concentrate is about $16.00 to $17.00 for 2 lbs. This is enough to treat enough water for you, your relatives and your neighbors for some time. Home Depot had a smaller container, less than 1 lb. for under $7.00, with the same formulation. Don't remove the lid on the concentrate and sniff it. It is powerful stuff!

Store your water containers on wooden palates or boards above your cement floors, and away from gasoline or other volitle substances, to avoid those interesting flavors in your drinking water. It is best to change out your water at least once a year, but twice a year may be best.

Remember, we can only live for about 3 days without water. A 55 gal. drum or water for each member of your family would be advised. That would get you through the first part of an emergency, then you can forage for water and purify it as needed.

CurtisG
09-27-2014, 03:55 PM
I decided to bump this instead of creating a new one.
I didn't know until recently that bleach loses its potency very quickly.(Institutional bleach is around 10%, so that it still has plenty of potency after months of shipping and sitting on a shelf) As a storable alternative I bought five 1lb packets of Calcium Hypochlorite (pool shock) to use.
Basically, you put 1tsp of CH into 2 gallons of water and then that solution is added at 1 part per 100 parts water that needs disinfection. Using that formula, one pound of Calcium Hypochlorite can treat 10,000 gallons of water.......
Here's the problem: that method assumes your pool shock is 70% CH, what I bought is more like 48%, some are 50+%, and you can get nearly 100% concentration elsewhere. So then you need some type of test kit to check how strong your mix really is. To confuse me even more, it is looking like the amount of chlorine you need varies depending on how "bad" the water to be treated is. And, no, more isnt better because too much chlorine in the water can make you sick:001_07:
Btw, I would be treating water that has already been filtered since there is some bad stuff like Giardia and Cryptosporidium that chlorine cant kill.

Now I have found that the off the shelf bleach can be stabilized by raising its pH above 11. This is done by adding Sodium Hydroxide(lye). (again, you would need a kit or test strips to measure the pH) Good overview here:http://www.cdc.gov/safewater/chlorination-faq.html
I can't seem to find out how long the bleach stabilized with lye will store.

Any thoughts on this or personal experience to relate?

JuneGem
10-15-2014, 08:35 AM
I have an additional question Clorox. All the measurements I can find regarding use of bleach to purify water is dated. All the new bleach that I can find is condensed. Does that change the amount to add per gallon of water?

CurtisG
10-15-2014, 11:48 AM
I don't know JuneGem I am still looking for answers, but it does look like a chlorine test kit is the way to go since so many variables are at work regarding the strength(concentration, shelf life) of the bleach. The standard "add X drops of bleach for X gallons of water" is too generic. For example, I read that the bleach sold for commercial or institutional use is initially very high in strength so by the time it gets through the supply chain and begins to be used for disinfection, it remains very strong after months of weakening before it gets to the end user.

arbilad
10-15-2014, 12:27 PM
You can also use hydrogen peroxide to disinfect water. It is very potent. And it becomes water when it breaks down.
Plus, water stores for a long while if you store it right. Even when you don't treat it. Just remind yourself to change it out twice a year (for instance, on conference weekends).

jennvan40
10-15-2014, 07:36 PM
If you are just looking to kill organisms in water with chlorine, has anyone given thought to ultraviolet light for that?

NoGreaterLove
10-15-2014, 08:03 PM
Dr Jones on LDSFF said those solar cookers he and his class put together are being used in foreign countries to kill germs. It may just be the heat though.

ghostcat
10-16-2014, 08:19 PM
Does anyone here have any knowledge of "Prill Beads"? I have heard through the grapevine (we all know how reliable that source is) that they are being used by some NGO relief agencies to purify water. Here is one reference I have come across...

Prill beads will lower the surface tension, raise the pH, and improve the ORP of the water you treat.

Prills are made from magnesium oxide that has been energetically treated.

Placing common water in contact with Prills causes a remarkable thinning of that water. The resultant liquid is known in nature as "Dew". Dew is about half the thickness of common water. Skin tissue absorbs it where it repels common water. This can be the moist internal tissue of the digestive tract or the somewhat drier tissue (skin) found on the outside of the body. Living cells that are properly filled have excellent dynamics, while cells that are under-inflated or perhaps even worse, over-inflated, are extremely vulnerable, both to absorption of toxic energies and to attack from predators. Proper liquid stasis relates directly to cellular longevity and cellular longevity relates directly to longevity itself.


Even though the alteration of physical characteristics of water by Prills does seem to render this liquid far cleaner that its parent "common water", Precious Prills were not designed to be a water purification device. There are many other adequate water purification devices (filters) available. Because this liquid doesn't support lower life forms such as germs, bacteria or fungi, it can be said to be antiseptic
If any of that is true it would seem that Prill Beads would be a useful addition to you water storage program.

PhoenixRising
10-16-2014, 10:27 PM
Magnesium oxide isn't very soluble: http://www.livestrong.com/article/500557-the-physical-properties-of-magnesium-oxide/

The energetic aspect may be the primary factor here. As far as "thinning" goes, most anything you dissolve in water will decrease its surface tension/viscosity.

CurtisG
10-17-2014, 09:02 PM
If you are just looking to kill organisms in water with chlorine, has anyone given thought to ultraviolet light for that?
There is a neat little gadget called Steripen that uses UV light and it is small enough for a backpacker to carry. As far as i recall, you would run the water through some type of filter first. There is a larger unit that doesnt need batteries, but requires a good bit of vigorous hand cranking.